Tham Phay cave expedition - Kayaking, trekking in Ba Be 2 days - I would highly recommend the Tham Phay cave expedition for anyone looking for excitement. Lots of caves in Vietnam are quite institutionalised in that they have ramps and stairways set up, they have permanent light fixtures and so on. This is a real cave! There was a lovely half an hour walk through the countryside to get there. The guides were very knowledgeable about the local flora and fauna, pointing out leaves and plants that were edible and sharing how they're used in local cuisine. Then the cave itself was magnificent. The water inside the cave is fresh and wonderful to wade in. The rocks themselves are not slippery nor difficult to walk on. The cave is full of wonderful rock formations but also life. We saw lots of bats and insects. The guides are also very creative at suggesting photo opportunities and can make you look like an intrepid explorer! For the more adventurous, there are opportunities to explore parts of the cave with beautiful rock pools and internal waterfalls. Truly a cave worth visiting. The homestay is luxurious! The staff are exceedingly kind and accommodating. The home-cooked food is absolutely delicious, and there was even home-made rice wine for dinner. This facilitated ready conversation with other guests already easy to talk to. It truly felt like an intimate and warm encounter with the hosts and with fellow travellers. The kayak on the lake was also wonderful. It is possible to borrow the kayaks on your own, but the tour gives you an opportunity to go right to the end of the river (before it becomes a waterfall), and to get off and go see that waterfall. Kayaking on the lake itself was so peaceful and the limestone cliffs enveloped the lake on all sides. I suspect it might be a lovely place to do rock-climbing also. My guide shared stories of his childhood on the lake and how, before motorised boats arrived, they would paddle to and from the various shores of the lake for festivals. He pointed out little cave shelters along the shore that paddlers could hide in during big storms. Little stories like these really made the place come alive. We also got to see the An Ma temple, an old Tay temple built on an island in the middle of the lake. He shared also shared what the temple meant to him and his people. I especially loved swimming in the lake. For those few minutes lying in the calm water staring up at limestone cliffs covered in trees, it felt like anything was possible. Last but not least, the staff were very helpful and flexible in modifying the tour so that I could catch a bus back to Hanoi. They were also very helpful in making arrangements and calling the local bus company so that they would make a stop at Ba Be Lake and pick me up. I really appreciated that. All in all, Ba Be Lake is a wonderful place and I wish I had stayed one more night to go walking and exploring the villages along the lake coast. There are activities suitable for all levels and everyone from the adrenaline junkie to the laid-back relaxer will find something here for them.

Do it! - Wonderful hospitality, room and food at Mr Linh's home stay. It's at the authentic Vietnam experience end of the western tourist spectrum (which is what we wanted). The place was spotless and has all the facilities you REALLY need. Kayaking on the lake is a special experience - the surrounding hills/mountains are magnificent. The trek is an opportunity to get off the beaten tourist track and see the real Vietnam. We had a great guide who was an endless source of local knowledge about local flora and fauna, local ethic peoples and their way of life.