A Journey Through the Vineyards of Rioja Alavesa

The sun was just beginning to cast its golden glow over the rolling hills of Biscay as my wife and I embarked on a journey that promised to be as rich and complex as the wines we were about to taste. Our guide, Anton, was a man of passion and knowledge, eager to share the secrets of the Rioja Alavesa with us. As we drove from Bilbao, the landscape unfolded like a painting, each vineyard a brushstroke of green and gold.

Our first stop was the renowned Marques de Riscal winery, a place that has long intrigued me with its blend of tradition and modernity. The architecture, a masterpiece of Frank Gehry, seemed to dance in the sunlight, its metallic ribbons reflecting the vibrant energy of the region. Inside, the air was cool and filled with the earthy aroma of aging wine. We were treated to a tasting of three exquisite wines, each paired with local delicacies like cheese and serrano ham. The flavors were a symphony on the palate, each note perfectly balanced and harmonious.

The Architectural Marvels of Ysios

Next, we journeyed to the Bodegas Ysios, a place that stands as a testament to the marriage of art and enology. Designed by Santiago Calatrava, the building itself is a work of art, its wavy lines echoing the undulating hills that surround it. As we tasted two of their premium wines, I couldn’t help but marvel at the way the architecture seemed to enhance the experience, each sip a celebration of creativity and craftsmanship.

The wines at Ysios were bold and expressive, much like the building itself. Paired with more local treats, they told a story of the land and its people, a narrative that has been crafted over centuries. It was a reminder of why I fell in love with wine in the first place, the way it can capture the essence of a place and time, offering a glimpse into the soul of a region.

A Stroll Through History in Laguardia

Our final stop was the medieval town of Laguardia, a place where history seems to whisper from every stone. As we wandered through its narrow streets, I was transported back in time, imagining the lives of those who had walked these paths before me. The town’s ancient walls and underground cellars, or “calados,” are a testament to the enduring legacy of winemaking in the region.

Though we were unable to visit the “El Fabulista” winery, known for its traditional methods of winemaking, the experience was no less enchanting. The town itself is a living museum, each corner offering a new discovery, a new story to tell. As we enjoyed a traditional three-course lunch, complete with lamb chops and potatoes Rioja style, I felt a deep connection to the land and its history.

The drive back to Bilbao was a time for reflection, the picturesque landscape a fitting backdrop for the memories we had created. The Marques de Riscal Rioja Wine and Architecture Tour was more than just a tasting; it was a journey through time and space, a celebration of the art and science of winemaking. I left with a renewed appreciation for the craft and a longing to return to this beautiful corner of the world.