A Stroll Through Time: Chur’s Historic Heart

Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland, is a place where history whispers through cobblestone streets and ancient architecture. As a former professor of European history, I was particularly drawn to the Chur Walking Tour, a guided exploration of this storied city. My wife and I embarked on this journey with a local guide, whose knowledge and passion for Chur’s past brought the city’s history to life.

Our tour began at the Rathaus, or Town Hall, a striking Gothic structure that stands as a testament to Chur’s resilience. The original building was destroyed by fire in 1464, but the current edifice, with its sloping roof and distinctive roof rider, has stood the test of time. As we admired the architecture, our guide shared tales of the city’s medieval past, painting a vivid picture of life in Chur centuries ago.

From the Town Hall, we meandered through Kornplatz, or Corn Square, a bustling hub that connects the old and new parts of the city. Once known by a different name, this square has been a focal point of Chur’s social and economic life for generations. As we walked, I couldn’t help but imagine the vibrant markets and lively gatherings that must have taken place here over the years.

Architectural Marvels and Sacred Spaces

Our journey continued to St. Martinsplatz, a charming square surrounded by historic buildings and inviting cafes. Here, we paused to take in the atmosphere, savoring the blend of old-world charm and modern vibrancy that defines Chur. The square is named after St. Martin’s Church, a magnificent structure that dates back to the 8th century.

St. Martin’s Church is a masterpiece of late Gothic architecture, its towering spire a beacon for travelers throughout the ages. Inside, the church is adorned with stunning stained glass windows designed by Augusto Giacometti in 1919. As I stood in the hushed interior, I felt a profound connection to the generations who have worshipped here, their prayers echoing through the centuries.

Our next stop was the Cathedral of St. Maria Himmelfahrt, a Romanesque gem that has stood for over 800 years. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, this cathedral is one of Switzerland’s most important cultural sites. The intricate stonework and soaring arches are a testament to the skill and devotion of the craftsmen who built it. As we explored the cathedral, our guide recounted its storied history, from its origins in the 5th century to its current form, completed in the 13th century.

The Living History of Chur

As we made our way through the heart of Chur, we arrived at Arcas Square, a picturesque spot that hosts a lively flea market and various events throughout the year. The square’s vibrant atmosphere is a reminder that Chur is not just a city of the past, but a living, breathing community.

Our tour concluded at the Rhaetian Railway Administration Building, an architectural marvel designed by Nicolaus Hartmann in the early 20th century. The building’s elegant design and historical significance make it a fitting endpoint for our journey through Chur’s rich history.

Reflecting on our tour, I was struck by the seamless blend of past and present that defines Chur. This city, with its ancient roots and modern spirit, offers a unique glimpse into the tapestry of European history. For those who, like me, are captivated by the stories of the past, a visit to Chur is an unforgettable experience.