A Journey Through Time: The Ancient City of Harar

As a wildlife photographer and travel writer, my adventures have taken me to some of the most remote and breathtaking corners of Africa. Yet, the allure of Harar, an ancient trade center in Ethiopia, was irresistible. Known for its vibrant culture and unique relationship with wildlife, Harar promised an experience unlike any other. With my camera in hand and a heart full of anticipation, I embarked on a journey to explore this historic city.

Upon arriving in Dire Dawa, I was greeted by Mickey, a tour guide whose reputation for reliability and knowledge preceded him. His warm smile and impeccable English immediately put me at ease. As we drove towards Harar, Mickey shared fascinating stories about the city’s history, its colorful houses, and the legendary wall built by Emir Nur in the 1560s. The wall, known as Jegol, still encircles the old city, a testament to Harar’s resilience and rich heritage.

Walking through the narrow alleyways of Harar felt like stepping back in time. The vibrant colors of the houses, the bustling local markets, and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air. Mickey’s expertise shone as he guided us through the Sheriff Museum, the Rimbaud House, and the Harari National Cultural Center. Each stop offered a glimpse into the city’s past, its artistic soul, and its enduring spirit.

The Enchanting Hyena Feeding Ritual

One of the most thrilling aspects of my Harar adventure was witnessing the hyena feeding ritual. As the sun dipped below the horizon, we gathered outside the city walls, where local men, known as hyena feeders, prepared for the nightly ritual. Armed with pieces of meat, they called out to the hyenas, who emerged from the shadows with a grace that belied their formidable reputation.

The connection between the people of Harar and these wild creatures was palpable. The hyenas approached with caution, yet there was an undeniable trust between them and the feeders. Watching the hyena man hold meat in his mouth as a hyena gently took it was both exhilarating and humbling. It was a powerful reminder of the harmony that can exist between humans and wildlife when respect and understanding are at the forefront.

As a wildlife photographer, capturing these moments was a dream come true. The challenge of photographing these elusive creatures in the dim light was thrilling, and the resulting images were a testament to the unique bond shared by the people of Harar and their hyena neighbors.

Exploring the Valley of Marvels and Beyond

The adventure didn’t end in Harar. The following day, we set out for the Babile Camel Market and the Valley of Marvels. The market, a vibrant hub of activity, offered a glimpse into the daily lives of Somali and Oromo farmers. The sight of camels, goats, and cattle being traded was a fascinating spectacle, and the energy of the market was infectious.

Our journey continued to the Valley of Marvels, a landscape that lived up to its name. The balancing rock formations were a geological wonder, and I found myself in awe of nature’s artistry. Each rock seemed to defy gravity, standing precariously yet majestically against the backdrop of the Ethiopian sky.

As we made our way back to Dire Dawa, I reflected on the incredible experiences of the past two days. Harar had not only offered a window into Ethiopia’s rich history and culture but had also reinforced my belief in the importance of sustainable travel. By respecting local traditions and fostering connections with the natural world, we can ensure that these extraordinary places continue to thrive for generations to come.

In the end, my journey to Harar was more than just a travel experience; it was a profound reminder of the beauty and resilience of both people and wildlife. I left with a heart full of gratitude and a camera full of memories, eager to share the story of Harar with the world.