Into the Heart of the Tien Shan Mountains

The moment I set foot in Esik, I knew I was in for an adventure unlike any other. The air was crisp, the landscape rugged and untamed, and the promise of the Tien Shan Mountains loomed large on the horizon. As a former city planner turned travel writer, I’ve always been drawn to the pulse of urban life, but this time, I was ready to trade skyscrapers for the towering peaks of Kazakhstan.

Our journey began with a drive from Almaty, a city that buzzes with energy and life, much like the metropolises I often explore. But as we left the city behind, the scenery transformed into a tapestry of ancient history and natural beauty. Our first stop was the Scythian open-air museum in Issyk, where the echoes of the past whispered through the giant burial mounds of ancient rulers. It was a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the Saki tribes, and I couldn’t help but imagine the stories these lands could tell.

Next, we made our way to the stunning Issyk Lake, nestled amidst the Northern Tien Shan’s highlands. The lake’s serene beauty was a stark contrast to the bustling cityscapes I usually write about, and as we enjoyed a picnic by its shores, I felt a sense of peace that only nature can provide. The journey continued to the Turgen gorge, where the lush vegetation and the sound of the Turgen River created a symphony of nature that was music to my urban-weary ears.

Glamping in the Wilderness

As the day drew to a close, we arrived at the Trekking Club campsite in the upper reaches of the Turgen gorge. This wasn’t just any campsite; it was a glamping experience that combined the thrill of the wild with the comforts of modern living. Crossing the suspension bridge to reach our camp felt like stepping into another world, one where the mountains stood guard and the river sang a lullaby.

The camp itself was a testament to sustainable tourism, a finalist in the Sustainable Destinations TOP 100 by Green Destinations. Our accommodations were safari-style tents, complete with beds, lighting, and even wicker furniture. It was a far cry from the bustling nightlife and hidden urban gems I usually seek out, but the tranquility of the mountains was a welcome change.

Dinner was a riverside buffet, and as I dined under the stars, I marveled at the simplicity and beauty of life in the wilderness. The night was spent in the embrace of nature, with the sounds of the river and the rustling leaves lulling me to sleep. It was a reminder that sometimes, the best experiences are found far from the city lights.

A Nomadic Adventure

The next day, we embarked on a jeep tour to the Assy highland plateau, a place where the nomadic life of the Kazak people comes alive. The road wound through the forested Turgen gorge, climbing to a height of 2600 meters above sea level, where the landscape opened up to reveal a vast green valley. Here, the nomads still live as they have for centuries, their yurts dotting the landscape like pearls on a green sea.

The plateau was a living history lesson, with sheep grazing on the slopes of ancient burial sites and eagles soaring overhead. It was a stark contrast to the urban environments I usually explore, yet it was a vibrant tapestry of life and culture that captivated my imagination. We even stopped at the Asy pass, home to one of the region’s largest astronomical observatories, a modern marvel amidst the ancient landscape.

Our final day was spent hiking to the Kairak waterfall, a journey that took us through deep spruce groves and across old bridges. The waterfall, standing at 70 meters, was a breathtaking sight, a testament to the raw power and beauty of nature. As I stood there, surrounded by the wild, I realized that this adventure had been a journey not just through the Tien Shan Mountains, but through time and culture, a reminder of the world beyond the city limits.

As we made our way back to Almaty, I felt a renewed sense of wonder and appreciation for the diverse landscapes and cultures that make up our world. This trip to the Land of Nomads was a vibrant, energetic escape from the urban landscapes I know so well, and it left me eager to explore more of the hidden gems that lie beyond the city lights.