A Morning in the Vineyards

The sun was already casting its golden glow over the rolling hills of Fleury-la-Rivière as I embarked on a journey that promised to be as effervescent as the champagne itself. The day began with a gentle ascent up the vineyard slopes in a rugged farm 4x4, the air crisp and invigorating. The vineyard, a Grand Cru, is one of the elite 17 among the 319 crus that contribute to the creation of champagne. As we reached the summit, the view was nothing short of breathtaking, a tapestry of verdant vines stretching as far as the eye could see.

Our host, Patrice, a man whose passion for champagne was as palpable as the bubbles in a freshly poured glass, welcomed us with a spread of pâté on baguette. The first tasting of the morning was a revelation, the champagne’s delicate notes dancing on my palate. Patrice regaled us with tales of his ancestors and the storied history of champagne, each sip accompanied by a deeper understanding of the land and its legacy. As we savored our second glass, the vineyard’s beauty seemed to intensify, each vine a testament to the meticulous care and tradition that define this region.

Exploring the Cellars

With the morning sun climbing higher, we descended into the village, where Patrice guided us through the labyrinthine cellars of yesteryear. Heavy wooden doors, each a portal to the past, lined the streets, whispering secrets of the champagne stored within. We paused before a grand door, behind which lay an exquisite 19th-century grape press. The sheer effort required to operate such a contraption was humbling, a reminder of the laborious journey from grape to glass.

Inside, the temperature dropped, and the air grew thick with humidity, the perfect conditions for champagne maturation. Here, we indulged in our second tasting, a crisp Blanc de Blancs paired with a selection of cheeses and freshly baked bread. The champagne, housed in a clear bottle, was a fleeting delight, its brilliance fading within an hour of exposure to natural light. It was a moment to savor, a fleeting glimpse into the ephemeral nature of this exquisite beverage.

The Art of Disgorging

Returning to the winery, we descended into the cellars beneath the house, where modern metal vats stood in stark contrast to the ancient press. These vats, with their precision and consistency, are the backbone of contemporary champagne production. Patrice, ever the gracious host, led us through the disgorging process, a delicate art that requires both skill and patience.

With a twinkle in his eye, Patrice handed me a bottle to try my hand at disgorging. My attempts were met with laughter and encouragement, the champagne replaced with water for my novice hands. It was a thrilling experience, a dance of precision and timing that left me in awe of the craftsmanship involved.

As the day drew to a close, we gathered for the final tasting, a delightful Rosé paired with rich dark chocolates. The combination was sublime, a symphony of flavors that lingered long after the last sip. Patrice, with his infectious enthusiasm and impeccable English, had only been conducting tours for a month, yet his passion and knowledge were boundless. As I bid farewell to the vineyard, I knew this was a journey I would cherish, a sensory exploration of champagne heritage that had left an indelible mark on my soul.