Into the Heart of the Simien Mountains

The journey began in Gondar, a city that whispers tales of ancient emperors and castles. As the sun rose, we set off towards the Simien Mountains National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site that promised an adventure like no other. The drive to Debark, where we obtained our permits, was a prelude to the grandeur that awaited us. The landscape transformed from bustling cityscapes to serene, rolling hills, and finally to the rugged beauty of the Simien Mountains.

Our first day was a gentle introduction to the park’s wonders. We hiked along the northern edge of the escarpment, where the views were nothing short of breathtaking. The foothills and plains of northern Ethiopia stretched out before us, a tapestry of greens and browns. It was here that I first encountered the gelada baboons, their manes flowing like capes as they foraged in the grass. These creatures, with their expressive eyes and social dynamics, were a photographer’s dream. As we reached the Sankaber campsite, the welcoming aroma of freshly brewed coffee greeted us, a comforting end to a day of exploration.

Ascending to New Heights

The following days were a test of endurance and spirit. From Sankaber, we trekked to Gich, a journey that took us through the Kaba valley and up to the Gich Abyss. The landscape was a study in contrasts, with the lush valley giving way to the stark cliffs of the abyss. The Jinbar River’s waterfall, cascading 500 meters into the depths, was a sight to behold. We paused for lunch by the river, the sound of water a soothing backdrop to our meal.

As we ascended through fields of barley, the gelada baboons were our constant companions, their presence a reminder of the park’s rich biodiversity. The village of Gich, with its traditional huts and warm-hearted locals, offered a glimpse into the lives of those who call this remote region home. At Gich camp, perched above the village, we were treated to a sunset that painted the sky in hues of orange and pink, a perfect end to a day of discovery.

Conquering Ras Dashen

The pinnacle of our trek was the ascent of Ras Dashen, Ethiopia’s highest peak. The climb began before dawn, the path illuminated by the soft glow of our headlamps. As we reached the ridge, the first rays of the sun broke over the horizon, casting a golden light over the valley below. The final push to the summit was challenging, but the reward was worth every step. Standing atop Ras Dashen, at 4,550 meters, the world seemed to stretch endlessly in every direction.

The descent was a time for reflection, the journey back to Ambiko filled with a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. The Simien Mountains had tested our limits, but they had also offered moments of profound beauty and connection. As we made our way back to Gondar, the memories of this trek lingered, a reminder of the power of nature and the importance of preserving these wild places for future generations.