A Journey Through Time in Haro

The anticipation was palpable as my wife and I embarked on our long-awaited journey to the Rioja wine region, a trip that had been postponed since 2020. Our guide, Ander, greeted us warmly at our hotel in San Sebastian, and it felt as though we were reuniting with an old friend. As we drove through the lush landscapes, Ander regaled us with tales of the region’s rich history and the evolution of its winemaking traditions.

Our first stop was the charming town of Haro, nestled in the heart of the Rioja Alta wine region. Here, we explored a traditional Riojan winery, where the air was thick with the scent of aging oak barrels and the promise of exquisite wines. The tasting was a symphony of flavors, each glass revealing the unique character of the region’s terroir. As we strolled through Haro’s Train Station District, the cobblestone streets whispered stories of the past, and I couldn’t help but feel a deep connection to the land and its people.

The Allure of Laguardia

Leaving Haro behind, we crossed the river into the Rioja Alavesa wine region, where the medieval village of Laguardia awaited us. The village, with its narrow winding streets and ancient stone buildings, seemed to have been plucked from the pages of a fairy tale. As we wandered through its enchanting alleys, Ander shared the village’s storied past, painting a vivid picture of its role in the region’s winemaking heritage.

Our visit to a family-run winery in Laguardia was a highlight of the day. The winery, with its intimate setting and passionate winemakers, offered a glimpse into the heart and soul of Rioja’s wine culture. The wines we tasted were a testament to the dedication and artistry of the winemakers, each sip a celebration of tradition and innovation. The experience was further enriched by a traditional Riojan lunch, where local specialties were paired with the region’s finest wines, creating a culinary symphony that danced on our palates.

Architectural Marvels and Lasting Impressions

As the sun began to set, we made our way to the architectural wonders of Bodegas Ysios and Bodegas Marques de Riscal. These modern winery buildings, with their avant-garde designs, stood in stark contrast to the ancient landscapes, yet somehow harmonized with the natural beauty of the region. The sight of Frank Gehry’s masterpiece at Marques de Riscal was a fitting finale to our day, a visual feast that left us in awe.

Reflecting on our journey, I was struck by the seamless blend of tradition and modernity that defines the Rioja wine region. From the historic streets of Haro to the medieval charm of Laguardia, and the cutting-edge architecture of its wineries, Rioja is a testament to the enduring spirit of innovation and respect for heritage. Our guide, Ander, with his wealth of knowledge and genuine passion, made the experience truly unforgettable. As we returned to San Sebastian, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this remarkable region, and a longing to return and uncover more of its secrets.