A Pilgrimage to the Hill of Crosses

Our journey began with a drive through the lush landscapes of Lithuania, a country steeped in history and mystery. As we approached the Hill of Crosses, the air seemed to thicken with a sense of reverence and defiance. This site, a testament to the resilience of faith, is a sprawling collection of over 100,000 crosses, each one a silent witness to the struggles and hopes of those who placed it there.

The Hill of Crosses is not merely a religious site; it is a symbol of resistance. During the Soviet era, when religious expression was suppressed, locals would secretly plant crosses under the cover of night. This act of defiance was met with harsh punishments, yet the crosses continued to multiply. Walking among them, I felt the weight of history pressing down, each cross a story, a prayer, a wish.

As I wandered through this forest of crosses, I couldn’t help but reflect on the power of belief and the human spirit’s indomitable will. The gentle clinking of rosary beads in the breeze was a haunting reminder of the countless souls who had come before me, each leaving a piece of themselves behind.

The Grandeur of Rundale Palace

Leaving the Hill of Crosses, we journeyed to the opulent Rundale Palace, a stark contrast to the somberness of our previous stop. Designed by the renowned architect F.B. Rastrelli, this Baroque masterpiece was built for the Duke of Courland, Ernst Johann Biron. The palace’s grandeur is evident in its meticulously restored interiors, from the gilded halls to the intricate frescoes that adorn the ceilings.

As I strolled through the Golden Hall and the White Hall, I was transported back to the 18th century, imagining the lavish balls and gatherings that once filled these rooms. The palace’s French-style gardens, with their manicured lawns and vibrant rose gardens, offered a serene escape, a place to ponder the lives of those who once called this palace home.

The Rundale Palace is not just a relic of the past; it is a living museum, hosting classical music concerts and festivals that breathe life into its storied halls. As I explored the exhibition halls, I was struck by the rich tapestry of history and culture that this palace represents, a testament to the artistic and architectural prowess of its creators.

The Enigmatic Bauska Castle

Our final stop was the enigmatic Bauska Castle, perched on a hillock between the Mūsa and Mēmele rivers. This castle, a fusion of two distinct structures, offers a glimpse into the region’s tumultuous past. The older section, now in ruins, dates back to the 15th century and was built by the Livonian Order. The newer part, a fortified manor house, was constructed in the 16th century by the Duke of Courland.

As I explored the castle’s museum, I was captivated by the tales of intrigue and romance that permeate its history. One such story is that of Magno Cavala, an Italian conman who claimed the waters near the castle were a potent love potion. His audacious scam is just one of the many colorful anecdotes that bring the castle’s history to life.

Standing atop the castle’s ramparts, I gazed out over the confluence of the rivers, imagining the strategic importance this site once held. The castle’s blend of medieval and Renaissance architecture is a testament to the region’s complex history, a story of conquest and adaptation.

This journey through Lithuania and Latvia was a profound reminder of the rich tapestry of history that Europe offers. Each site, from the Hill of Crosses to the castles of Rundale and Bauska, tells a story of resilience, grandeur, and intrigue. As I returned home, I carried with me not just memories, but a deeper understanding of the forces that have shaped this fascinating region.