A Journey Through Time: Nizwa Fort and Souq

As the sun rose over Muscat, I found myself embarking on a journey that promised to unravel the rich tapestry of Oman’s history. Our guide, Juma, a man whose calm demeanor and knowledge of the land were as vast as the desert itself, greeted us with a warm smile. The drive to Nizwa, the ancient capital of Oman, was a serene one, though I must confess, the gentle hum of the car lulled me into a peaceful slumber. I awoke to the sight of Nizwa’s majestic fort, standing as a sentinel over the city.

Our first stop was the Nizwa Souq, a marketplace that felt more European in its approach, with no haggling or pressure to buy. The stalls, laden with vibrant goods, invited us to explore at our leisure. It was a refreshing change from the bustling Mutrah Souq in Muscat. With a few treasures in hand, we made our way to the fort, a structure that has withstood the test of time since the 1650s. Built over an underground stream, it was designed to endure sieges, with its 30-meter high walls serving as a formidable defense.

Inside, the fort was a labyrinth of rooms and corridors, some adorned with carpets and cushions, offering a glimpse into the past. The exhibition on the fort’s restoration was enlightening, showcasing the meticulous efforts to preserve this historical gem. As we wandered through, we encountered women demonstrating traditional handicrafts, a testament to the enduring cultural heritage of Oman. The fort’s design was ingenious, with murder holes strategically placed to thwart attackers. From the walls, the view of the oasis and surrounding mountains was nothing short of breathtaking.

Bahla Fort: A Testament to Omani Resilience

Our journey continued to Bahla Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the largest fort in Oman. The drive was a scenic one, with rocky deserts and sharp ridges painting a picture of Oman’s rugged beauty. Bahla Fort, with its solid stone base and mudbrick towers, stood as a guardian of the ancient frankincense trade routes. The fort’s construction, though cruder than Nizwa’s, spoke of a time when functionality took precedence over aesthetics.

The heat was oppressive, yet the fort beckoned with its high walls and expansive views. As I explored the kasbah, the fortified citadel, I marveled at the thick walls and Islamic inscriptions that adorned the entrance hall. The rooms, though bare, whispered stories of a bygone era. The town of Bahla, surrounded by its original city wall, felt like a step back in time, a place where history and modernity coexist.

The handicraft section near the closed café was a delightful surprise, with modern design elements showcasing the pottery workshop’s creations. Though our time at Bahla was shorter than at Nizwa, the fort left an indelible mark on my soul, a reminder of Oman’s rich and resilient heritage.

Jabreen Castle: A Palace of Elegance

Our final destination was Jabreen Castle, a structure that defied the traditional notion of a fort. More a fortified manor house than a castle, its low outer walls were more for show than defense. Inside, the castle was a palace of elegance, with beautifully painted ceilings and ornate plasterwork. The rooms, filled with carpets, chests, and books, offered a glimpse into the life of its founder, Imam Bil’arab-bin Sultan al-Yarubi.

The castle’s bright rooms, with tall windows and an open central courtyard, exuded a sense of tranquility. It was a place where history came alive, where the past and present danced in harmony. The exhibition on the castle’s founder was a poignant reminder of Oman’s storied past, a tale of expansion and trade that reached as far as Mozambique and India.

As the day drew to a close, I reflected on the three forts we visited, each a unique chapter in Oman’s history. Juma, our guide, exemplified the Omani tradition of hospitality, making our journey not just a tour, but an experience of cultural immersion. It was a day that left me enriched, a day that reminded me of the beauty and resilience of Oman’s heritage.