A Drizzly Morning in Old Portsmouth

On a typically English drizzly Saturday morning, my wife and I found ourselves in the heart of Old Portsmouth, ready to embark on a historical walking tour that promised to unveil 900 years of the city’s dark, humorous, and horrifying past. As a former professor of European history, I was particularly intrigued by the prospect of exploring the lesser-known tales of this storied port city. Our guide, Sam, a local historian with an infectious passion for Portsmouth’s past, greeted us at the Landport Gate, the original entrance to the city. Despite the weather, the atmosphere was electric with anticipation.

The tour began with a vivid recounting of the city’s origins, as we stood before the imposing Landport Gate. Sam’s storytelling prowess quickly transported us back in time, painting a picture of a bustling medieval port teeming with pirates, paupers, and princes. His tales of the infamous Portsmouth Poll women and their interactions with these colorful characters were both enlightening and entertaining. As we moved through the cobbled streets, Sam’s deep knowledge and engaging anecdotes brought the city’s history to life, making the rain seem like a mere backdrop to the unfolding drama.

Unveiling the Secrets of Portsmouth

Our journey continued to the majestic Portsmouth Cathedral, where Sam delved into the city’s ecclesiastical history. Here, he revealed the fascinating connection between the cathedral and the ‘chapel’ of Thomas Becket, a detail that even I, with my background in European history, found intriguing. The cathedral’s architecture, a blend of Norman and Gothic styles, stood as a testament to the city’s rich and varied past.

Next, we visited the Royal Garrison Church, an ‘open air’ church that bore witness to centuries of Portsmouth’s tumultuous history. Sam’s narrative here was particularly poignant, as he recounted tales of wartime resilience and the indomitable spirit of the city’s inhabitants. The church’s ruins, open to the elements, seemed to echo the stories of survival and endurance that Sam so vividly described.

Our exploration of Portsmouth’s secrets culminated at the Round Tower, a medieval fortification with a storied past. Sam explained the origins of the ‘hot walls,’ a term that piqued my curiosity. His explanation, rooted in the city’s maritime history, was both enlightening and a testament to his extensive research and understanding of Portsmouth’s past.

A Toast to History at Spice Island

The final leg of our tour took us to Spice Island, a place steeped in myth and reality. Here, Sam regaled us with tales of the lawless days of Portsmouth Point, where danger and amusement coexisted in a delicate balance. His stories of espionage, coffee, and rogues were a fitting end to a tour that had been as entertaining as it was educational.

As the tour concluded, we found ourselves at one of the city’s original taverns, a perfect spot to reflect on the morning’s adventures. Over a pint of local ale, my wife and I marveled at how much we had learned and how Sam’s passion for Portsmouth’s history had made the past come alive. This tour, with its blend of humor, horror, and historical insight, was a delightful reminder of why I transitioned from academia to travel writing. It was a journey through time that I would highly recommend to anyone visiting Portsmouth, whether for the first time or the hundredth.

For those eager to explore the hidden corners of this fascinating city, the Old Portsmouth Tour is an experience not to be missed. It offers a unique glimpse into the past, guided by a local expert whose enthusiasm and knowledge are truly unparalleled.