The Road to Nokalakevi

The journey from Tbilisi to the ancient town-fortress of Nokalakevi is a long one, stretching over 675 kilometers of winding roads and shifting landscapes. As the cityscape of Tbilisi faded into the rearview mirror, I felt the familiar pull of history and decay, a siren call that has guided my travels through the forgotten corners of Eastern Europe. The road to Nokalakevi was a tapestry of contrasts, where the modern world seemed to unravel, revealing the threads of a past long forgotten.

The drive was a meditation, a slow unraveling of time as we ventured deeper into the heart of the Samegrelo region. The air grew thick with the scent of ancient forests, and the shadows of the past seemed to dance along the roadside. It was here, amidst the whispers of history, that I found myself drawn to the enigmatic allure of Nokalakevi, a place where the echoes of Byzantine and Sasanian conflicts still linger in the air.

Nokalakevi: A Fortress of Time

Nokalakevi, also known as Archaeopolis, is a place where time stands still. The fortress, a sprawling archaeological site, occupies approximately 20 hectares of land, each inch steeped in the blood and sweat of ancient warriors. As I wandered through the ruins, I could almost hear the clash of swords and the cries of battle, a haunting symphony that played out in the shadows of the crumbling walls.

The fortress was a key player in the wars between the Byzantines and Sasanians during the sixth century AD, a bastion of defense against the tides of conquest. It was here that the Persians’ ambitions were thwarted, their failure to capture Nokalakevi costing them control of Lazika. The air was thick with the weight of history, and I felt a profound connection to the stories etched into the stones beneath my feet.

Hidden Gems of Samegrelo

Beyond the fortress, the Samegrelo region revealed its hidden gems, each one a testament to the enduring beauty of decay. The enchanting wonder of Mukhuri, with its lush green moss and ancient buxus trees, was a sanctuary of nature’s resilience. The Dadiani Summer Residence, with its echoes of aristocratic grandeur, offered a glimpse into a world long past.

But it was the Martvili Canyon that truly captured my imagination. The canyon, with its cascading waterfalls and serene pools, was a place of ethereal beauty, a reminder of nature’s power to reclaim and renew. As I stood on the edge of the canyon, I felt a sense of awe and reverence, a reminder that even in decay, there is beauty to be found.

The Nokalakevi Tour was more than just a journey through history; it was a pilgrimage to the heart of a forgotten world, a testament to the enduring allure of the past. As I made my way back to Tbilisi, I carried with me the stories of Nokalakevi, a reminder that even in the shadows of decay, there is life to be found.