Arrival in Hoonah: A Remote Alaskan Village

The air was crisp as I stepped off the boat in Hoonah, a small village nestled in the heart of Alaska. The village, home to just 850 residents, is a place where time seems to stand still, and the raw beauty of the Alaskan wilderness is ever-present. My wife and I were the only ones on the tour that day, a stroke of luck that allowed us to experience the village in an intimate and personal way.

Todd, our guide, greeted us with a warm smile. A year-round resident of Hoonah, he was a wealth of knowledge about the village and its people. As we drove to the Hoonah Beach House, Todd shared stories of the village’s history and the challenges of living in such a remote location. The Beach House, a labor of love for Todd and his wife Teresa, was a testament to their dedication and hard work. The deck offered a breathtaking view of the water, where we were fortunate enough to witness several whales breaching the surface.

The Art of Crabbing and Carving

Our adventure began with a hands-on lesson in crabbing. Todd took us to the water’s edge, where he reeled in a bucket of Dungeness crabs. The process was fascinating, a delicate dance of skill and patience. We selected two crabs, which Todd promptly put on ice before steaming them to perfection.

While the crabs cooked, Todd took us on a tour of the village. We visited his property, where he was in the midst of building a greenhouse, a testament to the ingenuity and resilience required to thrive in such a harsh environment. On our way back to the Beach House, we stopped to watch a master carver at work. The craftsmanship was exquisite, each stroke of the chisel bringing the totem pole to life. It was a humbling experience, witnessing the dedication and artistry of the Tlingit people.

A Feast to Remember

Back at the Beach House, we were treated to a meal that was nothing short of extraordinary. The crabs, fresh from the water, were served alongside Teresa’s jasmine rice and her secret dipping sauce. The flavors were a revelation, a perfect blend of freshness and spice. As we savored each bite, Teresa served us her special tea with half & half, a comforting and warming accompaniment to the meal.

The day was a rare opportunity to connect with Todd and Teresa, to learn about their lives and the unique challenges of living in a remote part of Alaska. Their hospitality and warmth made the experience unforgettable, a day that will linger in my memory long after the chill of the Alaskan air has faded. For those seeking an authentic taste of Alaskan life, the Alaskan Village Tour is an experience not to be missed.