Discovering the Menceyatos: A Journey Through Time

As a former professor of European history, I have always been fascinated by the stories of ancient civilizations and their enduring legacies. My recent journey to Vilaflor, Tenerife, was no exception. The allure of the aboriginal kingdoms, or menceyatos, of Tenerife, with their rich history and cultural significance, drew me in. These nine distinct territories, ruled by indigenous leaders known as menceyes, existed long before the Spanish conquest in the 15th century. Each menceyato had its own unique social structure, economy, and culture, making them a captivating subject for any history enthusiast.

Our journey began in the charming town of Candelaria, a coastal gem known for its black-sand beaches and the Basilica of the Black Virgin. This stunning church, home to the patron saint of the Canary Islands, set the tone for our exploration. The town’s pedestrian streets, lined with shops, bars, and restaurants, offered a delightful introduction to the local culture. We indulged in churros, a popular Spanish pastry, at a local bar, savoring the sweet treat with hot chocolate as we prepared for the historical adventure ahead.

The Guanches: Guardians of a Rich Heritage

The Guanches, the indigenous people of Tenerife, were the original inhabitants of these menceyatos. Their way of life, deeply rooted in agriculture, livestock, and fishing, was a testament to their resourcefulness and adaptability. As we traveled through the regions of Taoro, Tegueste, Tacoronte, Anaga, Güímar, Abona, Adeje, Icod, and Daute, I was struck by the remnants of their polytheistic religion and cave dwellings. These elements of their culture, blending communal and hierarchical aspects, painted a vivid picture of a society that thrived in harmony with its environment.

One of the highlights of our tour was the visit to the Pyramids of Guimar. These mysterious structures, shrouded in legend and speculation, offered a glimpse into the architectural ingenuity of the Guanches. As I stood before these ancient edifices, I couldn’t help but draw parallels to other ancient civilizations I had studied, each leaving behind monumental legacies that continue to intrigue and inspire.

A Taste of Tradition: Wine and Mummies

Our exploration of the menceyatos would not have been complete without a visit to the Bodega Cumbres de Abona in Arico. Here, we sampled exquisite local wines, each sip a testament to the region’s rich agricultural heritage. The vineyard, nestled amidst the picturesque landscape, provided a serene backdrop for our tasting experience.

In Fasnia, we encountered a collection of 1000 mummies and Guatimac, a testament to the Guanches’ complex spiritual beliefs and burial practices. These artifacts, preserved through the ages, offered a poignant reminder of the island’s ancient past and the enduring legacy of its original inhabitants.

As our tour concluded, I reflected on the profound connection between the past and present in Tenerife. The menceyatos, with their unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, had offered a window into a world that, while long gone, continues to resonate in the hearts and minds of those who seek to understand it. This journey through the aboriginal kingdoms of Tenerife was not just a tour; it was a voyage through time, a chance to walk in the footsteps of the Guanches and experience the island’s rich heritage firsthand.